Bear Encounter: On the Trail to Horseshoe Basin, North Cascades National Park

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I just returned from a 6-day backpacking trip in North Cascades National Park. We went up and over Cascade Pass, down to Stehekin for a visit to the Stehekin Pastry Company!

On the way there (and back) we visited Horseshoe Basin, which is an incredibly beautiful, jaw-dropping place and will merit its own series of images…but along the way we met up with a denizen of the forest…

We are resting at the trail junction with the spur trail to Horseshoe Basin and looking up I spotted a black bear headed right for us! Excited to have a chance to photograph her, I ran for the camera and started shooting.

Slowly I approached her, as she came down the last switch-back to the trail junction, wanting to have a clear image but not get too close. The trails form a sort of highway for many creatures in the park, it is certainly the easiest way to cover ground in the thick brush and mountain sides…

She approached the trail junction, and I am shooting (pictures!!!) like mad…and then I realized that she wanted to head down the trail where we were standing!

We started to say nice words to the bear, and backed up along the hill-side, waiting to see what she would do.

The bear stopped and considered, sizing us up…then she sort of resignedly continued down the trail, out of our sight while she traversed the slope just below us, then once passed our location, climbed back up the hill made it back on the trail and continued on her way up to Horseshoe basin…

We sat for a while, in wonder, munching our clif bars and then set off along the trail, after her…

Liberty Bell from North Cascades Highway

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Last week I journeyed up the North Cascades Highway to the lookout at Washington Pass to take pictures of the stars. Here are the results…

Pasayten Wilderness Trek: Slate Peak to Lakeview Ridge

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I’ve read in several guide books that the northern-most section of the Pacific Crest Trail, (Pasayten Wilderness, Washington State) is one of the most scenic of the trail. Actually this 25 mile section of trail is part of two National Scenic Trail systems: The Pacific Crest Trail (Canada to Mexico) and the Pacific Northwest Trail (Glacier National Park, Montana to Olympic National Park, Washington).

So, I decided to see for myself. We drove to Mazama, on the North Cascades Highway and headed up the 18-mile road to Harts Pass and the trail head.

The mostly dirt road is suitable for most any car and is breathtaking in itself. It winds its way to the top of Slate Peak, at more than 7,000 feet elevation.

It’s always nice to start a hike at its highest point, rather then (as is usually the case) it’s lowest.

Trailhead Parking

From the very start the trail is glorious: expansive views of the Pasayten peaks to the east as well as the jagged spires to the west in North Cascades National Park.

Arriving late in the afternoon we only made it 6 miles the first day, camping at Jim Pass. The entire pass was upholstered in herbaceous wildflowers, making it difficult to stop taking pictures!

View from Jim Pass

Wildflowers atop Jim Pass

The next morning the valleys were filled with fog, but we were above and the weather was perfect as we hiked along. The trail traverses the side of Devil’s Backbone and then drops down to Holman Pass.

The second night we camped in meadows on a shelf just south of Rock Pass.

Meadows just below Rock Pass

There is a spring for water and the expansive meadows are a wide open space.

Always lots of deer hanging near camp…

Camp visitors

Shull and Powder Mountains loom above.

Shull Mountain Panorama

There are two small lakes (Goat Lakes) just above the trail, and there is an easy boot-path to them.

The hike up and over Rock Pass and then though Woody Pass is definitely one of the highlights of the trip.

Wildflowers just before Rock Pass

Green meadows, abundant wildflowers, soaring peaks, a true masterpiece.

Rock Pass Panorama

From Rock Pass the trail dips down about 600 feet, traverses below steep slopes and then heads right back up to the narrow gap of Woody Pass.

Between Rock Pass and Woody Pass

Following the trail through Woody Pass puts one back on the west side of the Cascade Crest.

Looking back at Rock Pass from Woody Pass

Now the trail mostly maintains its altitude as it makes its way to Lakeview Ridge, the highest point along this section of the trail. The entire 3 miles is impossible to hike quickly: there are too many incredible views!

Along the trail…

More wildflowers

Cornering around the last finger ridge, the Lakeview Ridge comes into view. A few final switch-backs, and viola! We made it!

From the top of the ridge there are unrestricted views in every direction. Mount Baker and the Pickets are in clear view to the west.

To the north we could see the 1996 burn along the Three Fools Trail, which we had hiked a few years before and Hopkins Lake, nestled below the Devils Staircase…

Hopkins Lake

The view south is dominated by Three Fools Peak, and in every direction stretch long verdant valleys, carpeted in green…

Three Fools Peak

We spent the night there, on top of the ridge. The weather was perfect, 70’s in the day, 40 to 50 at night. There were very few bugs, compared to my earlier visits.

Three Fools Peak and Wildflowers

More flowers atop Lakeview Ridge

After a night atop the ridge, we retraced our path back to the car, taking our time to soak up the perfect scenery…

All told it’s 21 miles from the parking lot to the top of Lakeview Ridge. One of my all-time favorite hikes!

Pasayten Wilderness Panorama, from Rock Pass, Looking North

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Taken on the Pacific Crest Trail, July 31, 2012. No color retouching, it’s really that green…

North Fork Meadows, North Cascades National Park

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Ever since my first visit to the North Fork Meadows I have been dreaming about my return…

The trip is not that long. The guide book says that the hike to the meadows provides the best scenery for the least amount of effort. Not sure if the part about effort is true but the scenery is magnificent.

The trip starts at the Bridge Creek Trail head on highway 20 (North Cascades Highway) between Rainy Pass and Washington Pass. The first 10 miles are mostly down, gradually loosing elevation until reaching a junction with the trail to North Fork Meadows.

From here its a mere 7 mile hike to the end of the trail, amidst towering spires, lush green meadows and waterfalls. 

We started the first days hike at 3pm and had to hurry to get to the camp site near the trail junction before dark. The trail from Highway 20 to the junction is actually part of the famed Pacific Crest Trail. The trail is well-maintained and easy to follow.

The next morning we were off early headed now up to the meadows. The first 3 miles are easy. The further along you get the brushier the trail becomes. Passing Walker Park Camp we soon came to a ford of Grizzly Creek. There are three braids of the stream to cross, the first no higher than your shoe tops, the second to my knees and the third braid almost to my waist.

Crossing a glacier fed stream in sandals is one way to remind yourself that your alive.

Once past the ford the trail becomes a veritable jungle. the brush is so thick in places that its a struggle to push through with a heavy pack. Choked with branches and small trees, covered with grass and filled with rocks of all sizes the trail (better to call it an obstacle course) is a challenge. Adding to the fun are stinging nettles and the fact that in several places the trail has become a stream. There is no way to hike this trail and not get soaked. 

After a few miles of this the thickets give way to a gravel bar and awesome views of Melamoosa Ridge and Goode Mountain.
Goode Mountain Waterfalls em
Goode Mountain
Time for lunch!


North Fork Bridge Creek Valley

Then its back to the bushwhacking for a while as the trail climbs to the headwaters of North Fork.

Soon the trail emerges for good from the jungle and there you are, in the meadows!

North Fork Meadows

Now the trail meanders up the valley. Waterfalls are visible on 3 sides, I lost count at 20…

Finally beneath three huge cascades streaming down from the glaciers that trail ends at the foot of a gorgeous cataract on the North Fork itself.
Mount Logan and waterfall North Cascades National Park
Mount Logan and Waterfall


Looking back down the valley

Storm King and Goode Mountain from Upper North Fork Bridge Creek Valley
Storm King


At the end of the trail, looking further up the valley


Mt Logan in the Morning Light

Infinitely worth the effort.

Only now we have to hike back…

Atop Devils Dome with Lightning and Forest Fires!

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Something woke me up. I lay for a moment with eyes closed, sensing. There was a stillness, which was odd seeing that I was camped on a mountain top, and the smell of rain in the air. Suddenly opening my eyes I saw that the sky was clouded over. I lay for another moment reluctantly picturing myself getting up and putting the rain fly on the tent when I saw the flicker of lightning in the eastern sky. I sat up looking…there was another flash…and another.

Quickly exiting the tent I stood scanning the sky. There was lightning to the east…then to the south, then again, to the west…the dark tumultuous sky was alive with flashes, the peaks briefly illuminated and then again black shapes…I looked on in wonder…and then it stated raining.

I quickly awoke my two companions and let them know that they needed to get up, get dressed and get out of the tent and give me a hand. At first they were both saying, “why don’t you just put on the rain fly and get back in, go back to sleep…” and I replied that if they stayed in the tent that they would miss the lightning show…that provided sufficient motivation and they were soon out of the tent, looking at the skies. The lightning was getting more intense, more frequent…we could see the glow of a fire to the west, over towards Ross Lake and the National Park boundary.

My plan was simple: get the rain fly on the tent, throw all our stuff in it, don our rain gear and then lie on the grass and watch the show. But my two friends had other ideas. One strongly advised that we immediately depart and head down the mountain to find shelter from the lightning. My other friend insisted on a more simple approach: do nothing and simply enjoy the storm. I started with the rain fly and loading the tent and soon they came to assist me.

Some one came up with the idea of planting our trekking poles in the ground, well away from the tent, to act as lightning rods (!). And so, now somewhat content with our preparations, we all watched.

The rain started to come down now. The wind picked up, strong gusts blowing across the summit. The flashes became more insistent, more frequent. With each flash the ridges between us suddenly appeared out of darkness, and then…gone back to my imagination, leaving lasting imprints of what had just been illuminated. From our vantage point we could see what looked like 6 or so fires burning…

On three sides of us there were regular flashes, every few seconds, another, and then another. The wind and rain continued unabated. In fact they increased along with the regularity of the lightning, each building to a crescendo. The lightning now seemed to take on a reddish hue, then green or blue (was it just my imagination?)

Transfixed by the sheer beauty, we had front row seats for natures own fireworks show, the best we had ever seen. Just as I was starting to edge towards getting the hell out of there the tempest began to lessen, the wind shifted. The lightning to the west, which seemed to head towards us, stopped.

And that was it! The storm cell had passed us by. The lightning to the east faded out and in its place we could now see the faint hint of the sun.

The date was 08/08/08. This was the opening night of the Olympics in Bejing, and we mused that the fireworks we had just seen surpassed theirs, hands down. It was also the scheduled date for the start up of the Large Hadron Collider and we considered that the lightning storm was a direct result of the resultant black holes now devouring earth. These points we avidly debated, but all agreed that the peak was rightly named: Devils Dome.

As the excitement died down my friends retired to sleep and I ventured forth to catch some of the morning light.

The Pasayten Wilderness is one of my favorite places in Washington, a land of mountains and rivers, steep valleys and meadows, wildflowers and zen like peace. This experience, on day 6 of our twelve day trek which started at the Canyon Creek Trail head on the North Cascades Highway.

Our journey was just getting started…